Uruguay has three distinct frontiers, one each with the two giants of South America, Argentina and Brazil, and the other with the Atlantic Ocean. Uruguay’s coastal region is what the country is known for, and the majority of its 3.5 million population live within walking distance of a beach. Its capital, Montevideo, and the town of Colonia are both pleasant very relaxed, with charming colonial architecture. Whilst these towns are popular with visitors, most people crossing into Uruguay are there for the beaches. This article is going to look at two contrasting Uruguayan beach experiences starting with the ‘love it or hate it’ Punta del Este, and the much lesser known Cabo Polonio. Visiting the two in a short space of time is the closest you are likely to come to time travel.
Uruguay | Punta del Este | Cabo Polonio
Punta del Este
Most people who have visited South America, or even read up on the region are likely to have heard of Punta del Este. It’s one of South America’s best known and most popular summer resorts, with casinos, restaurants, hotels, shopping boutiques and of course beaches. Punta is a peninsula and in some parts is just a few hundred yards wide, meaning you’re never far from a beach, and your hotel is more likely to boast an ocean view. That’s if you can get a room, as when summer rolls around Uruguay’s modest population is generously subsidised by Argentina, and to a lesser extent Brazil.
Most people who have visited South America, or even read up on the region are likely to have heard of Punta del Este. It’s one of South America’s best known and most popular summer resorts, with casinos, restaurants, hotels, shopping boutiques and of course beaches. Punta is a peninsula and in some parts is just a few hundred yards wide, meaning you’re never far from a beach, and your hotel is more likely to boast an ocean view. That’s if you can get a room, as when summer rolls around Uruguay’s modest population is generously subsidised by Argentina, and to a lesser extent Brazil.
Getting there is very straightforward; there is a local airport that is served well in the summer, and Montevideo is only around a two-hour drive. The summer season is actually fairly short, and runs from December to February, and either side of these times the weather might not be beach worthy. Although it is busy this time, if it’s the kind of place you want to visit, this remains the best time to come. Daytime activities tend to be limited to the beach, and then at night the entertainment comes to life. Those over from Buenos Aires bring their nocturnal instincts with them, so expect a full night out to finish with the sun rising. One of Punta’s newest hotspots for doing just this, is ‘Punta 33’ which is a restaurant and bar that opens to the early hours and occasionally has live music, although more commonly, Latino pop music over the speakers.
Even if Punta is not your thing there is particularly nice area just ten minutes up the coast, called La Barra, which is hard not to like. The only disagreeable thing is the prices, but if your budget can stretch, it is host to some excellent beach bar/restaurants that serve equally well for relaxing by day, and partying at night.
Punta is certainly not a place for everyone, but if your idea of a beach break is lazy days and crazy nights it might work for you.
Cabo Polonio
If decorated drinks and ‘doubling down’ aren’t your thing then you might want to make a little extra effort and head further east to Cabo Polonio. It is undetected by many of the guidebook’s radars, but some travellers are making the trip. Cabo does share something in common with Punta, in that it too, is a peninsula. Cabo however, is more exposed to the Atlantic, and as a result the wind and the settlement’s relative isolation, give it a ‘last frontier’ feel, in sharp contrast to the atmosphere in Punta.
Even if Punta is not your thing there is particularly nice area just ten minutes up the coast, called La Barra, which is hard not to like. The only disagreeable thing is the prices, but if your budget can stretch, it is host to some excellent beach bar/restaurants that serve equally well for relaxing by day, and partying at night.
Punta is certainly not a place for everyone, but if your idea of a beach break is lazy days and crazy nights it might work for you.
Cabo Polonio
If decorated drinks and ‘doubling down’ aren’t your thing then you might want to make a little extra effort and head further east to Cabo Polonio. It is undetected by many of the guidebook’s radars, but some travellers are making the trip. Cabo does share something in common with Punta, in that it too, is a peninsula. Cabo however, is more exposed to the Atlantic, and as a result the wind and the settlement’s relative isolation, give it a ‘last frontier’ feel, in sharp contrast to the atmosphere in Punta.
Many of the residents of Cabo Polonio keep a horse or two, and these can be hired, and can be a good way to explore the area. Whether you choose to go on four legs or two, make sure you do have an extensive look around as the scenery is stunningly beautiful, with protected forest areas and miles of sandy beaches and dunes. With such wonderful landscapes to explore, don’t forget to leave time in the schedule for doing absolutely nothing. Take a good book, open a cold beer, maneuver yourself into a hammock and simply enjoy the moment.
Cabo Polonio redefines ‘getting away from it all’.
Cabo Polonio redefines ‘getting away from it all’.
As you may have thought, getting to Cabo involves a lot more effort that getting to Punta del Este. The coastal bus service east from Montevideo takes a little over four hours. (for the bus company's website and timetable go to www.trescruces.com.uy) However the journey doesn't end where the bus stops; those feeling energizing by the fresh breeze might want to walk the 7 km to the small town of Cabo, although there are typically some 4x4 vehicles there to greet the bus, and will take you to the town. There are guesthouse available there, although some do not operate in the winter months so do you best to make some contact before you head there. The best online resources for accommodation and other infomation on Cabo Polonio is in Spanish only at www.cabopolonio.com. Much of the accommodation on there can book up in advance for the summer, so be sure to book if something catches your eye. However there is other accommodation available not listed on the website. Don’t expect a top end Conrad Hotel and Casino, but instead very basic, but clean guesthouses.
There are obviously a variety of beaches in Uruguay and everyone should be able to fine one to suit them. Punta del Este and Cabo Polonio are at the opposite ends of the scale and therefore tend to attract a different crowd. I would actually suggest trying to take in both, as Punta del Este can be a lot of fun if you have the budget, and the beauty and isolation of Cabo Polonio is the perfect place to recharge after Punta. If you have your own vehicle, the two places are only two hours apart, although be sure to change out of your white Gucci loafers in favour of a pair of flip-flops before you arrive in Cabo.
Paul Ismail - 15th January 2007
There are obviously a variety of beaches in Uruguay and everyone should be able to fine one to suit them. Punta del Este and Cabo Polonio are at the opposite ends of the scale and therefore tend to attract a different crowd. I would actually suggest trying to take in both, as Punta del Este can be a lot of fun if you have the budget, and the beauty and isolation of Cabo Polonio is the perfect place to recharge after Punta. If you have your own vehicle, the two places are only two hours apart, although be sure to change out of your white Gucci loafers in favour of a pair of flip-flops before you arrive in Cabo.
Paul Ismail - 15th January 2007
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