Lake Titicaca lies on the border of Peru and Bolivia, and is popular with travellers as a good stop off point when travelling between the two countries. On the Peruvian side, the main town is Puno, with Copacabana being the main destination on the Bolivian side of the lake. Puno is well served by bus routes, with most people coming from either Arequipa or Cusco. (for information on these journey times and other major bus routes, view our South America Bus Times section). Puno is also one of the few places in Peru served by a train line. The train will cost you more than the bus, it’s a good way to take in some of the scenery, and if you’ve been travelling in Peru for some time you might want a break from the buses. If you are heading on to Bolivia after Copacabana, the capital La Paz would be the natural choice of destinations, and is easily reached by bus.
Lake Titicaca | Puno and Copacabana
Crossing the Peru / Bolivia border Safely
There aren’t any scheduled boat journeys across the border, so it’s time to get back on the bus. The bus journey time from Puno to Copacabana will be around 4 hours, this is including the time taken for passport control at the border. As always with border towns, there are plenty of people on hand to change your currency for you. I would recommend changing US Dollars and also having a good idea of how much local currency you expect in return, to make sure they are giving you the correct rate.
Puno and the Uros Islands
Puno itself is not a particularly attractive town. It is however the best route for those heading from Peru to Bolivia (or vice versa) and worth stopping there for the trip on the Uros Islands. There is plenty of accommodation in the town for those looking to stop over a night, which is normally the case, as the buses across the border tend to leave early in the morning. Accommodation in Puno would normally not need to be booked in advance, but around the time of carnival (February) the town is popular with those wanting to witness or take part the ‘devil dances’ that occur as part of the ‘Virgen de la Candelaria’ festival.
Trips to see the floating reed islands can be arranged on the day in Puno, and the islands are the home of the Uros people. The Uros people lived throughout the Inca years, and due to their basic/non-threatening lifestyle, the Incas did not bother them. They subsequently outlasted the Incas, and today maintain a very similar lifestyle on the lake, living on reed islands and speaking their traditional language of Aymara. It has become a popular trip from Puno to visit these islands, and it is certainly worth the short trip to witness these people genuinely living in these traditional ways.
Border crossings in general are popular places for criminals to hang around looking for an opportunity. Although there are stories of trouble at the Peru / Bolivia border here, you are unlikely to encounter any problems if you take the usual precautions. First of all if you are chatting away to any ‘friendly’ locals at any point, either on the bus on at the border, graciously refuse any offer from them to take you to your accommodation in a friend's car. Keep an eye on you belongings when buses are being loaded and unloaded, and be weary of people offering to help you with you bags. If you are arriving in Copacabana by bus, most will stop very centrally and you should be able to walk to accommodation very easily. The towns are on the whole quite safe and the local people there are generally friendly.
Copacabana
For Barry Manilow fans looking to pay homage, you have come to the wrong Copa, you want to head for Rio. Bolivia’s Copacabana, is somewhat more sleepy and, well, Bolivian. It’s certainly a pleasant town, with an impressive cathedral, and is also home to landlocked Bolivia’s naval base. Obviously most visitors come to go out on the lake and trips can be arranged very easily when you are there. It’s even possible if you are in a small group, to hire a small vessel and the skipper to take you out. The most popular trip is out on to Isla del Sol. Many do it as a day trip, although it does have some reasonably priced accommodation and a couple of small restaurants, so it is worth staying over if you have time in your schedule and you’re looking for a relaxing evening.
Weather
The wet season in the area is early December to March and therefore you may get some rain, or even snow around this time. Due to the altitude the weather can be cold, especially in the evenings and at night. However there are also many clear and sunny days, and when you are out on the lake the sun can be very strong so make sure you have your sunscreen with you. Outside of the rainy season you are likely to enjoy clear blue skies, but make sure you are also prepared for the cold nights in unheated hotels and hostals. The same goes for travelling anywhere in the altiplano where the altitude dictates the climate more than the season.
Lake Titicaca is on the well-beaten path for travellers in Peru and Bolivia, and is certainly worth a visit. If you are travelling between the two countries you’re going to have pass through the area anyway so definitely make a stop. If you are on a tight time schedule, I would recommend Copacabana and Isla del Sol on the Bolivian side, although the Uros Islands from Puno are worth a trip should time permit. Either way, you should certainly try to get out onto the lake’s clear waters to experience the great views of the snowcapped Andean peaks in the distance.
Sarah Donahue
History and Significance
Lake Titicaca is well known as the highest navigable lake in the world (large enough to be navigable to large vessels) High on the altiplano at an altitude of 3800m (around 12,000) and it covers over 8,000 sq km. (3,200 sq miles), making it the largest lake in South America.
The lake was particularly significant to the Inca Empire. It was believed that the founders of the Inca Empire, Manco Capac and Mama 0cllo, arose from the lake on Isla del Sol. There is also supposed to be a two-ton gold chain in the lake that was dumped there by the Incas when the Spanish arrived in Cusco, and has not since been found.
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