The Road of Death can be done in a day trip from the city and can be booked and organized a couple of days in advance. This was one of my favourite day trip activities when I was travelling so I strongly advise giving it a go. There is amazing and diverse scenery from start to finish and a great adrenalin rush.
In terms of places to eat, unsurprisingly La Paz offers as good a variety as anywhere else in the country. If you’re one of those strange people that crave junk like McDonalds then La Paz is the place to load up with one on the main avenue as you’. Alternatively if you have taste buds there are plenty of decent eateries on that same road including pizzerias, steak houses and restaurants with more traditional Bolivia fare. Prices are very reasonable and if you’re just after a snack then pick up some fresh fruit in the markets for next to nothing.
In terms of places to eat, unsurprisingly La Paz offers as good a variety as anywhere else in the country. If you’re one of those strange people that crave junk like McDonalds then La Paz is the place to load up with one on the main avenue as you’. Alternatively if you have taste buds there are plenty of decent eateries on that same road including pizzerias, steak houses and restaurants with more traditional Bolivia fare. Prices are very reasonable and if you’re just after a snack then pick up some fresh fruit in the markets for next to nothing.
La Paz, the world’s highest capital city sits in a canyon high in the Bolivian altiplano just over 3,700 metres (12,000ft) above sea level. Whilst the air is thin the city is a vibrant bustling place with all the hustle and bustle you’d expect from a South American capital city.
Buses are the best way to get around most of Bolivia, especially if you’re on a budget, and La Paz has a large central bus station (located on Plaza Antofagasta only a short taxi ride from the city centre). Buses in Bolivia should get you to your location but don’t set you watch by them; many seem to leave later than planned, with even more arriving much later than planned and the quality of the roads and buses is basic. Alternatively if budget is less of an issue or you are short of time you can fly in to El Alto airport which is about 30 mins in a taxi from the La Paz city centre. Something to consider if you’re flying into La Paz from a low altitude destination is that you won’t be acclimatized to the altitude so take it easy for the first day or so. Altitude sickness is a genuine problem for visitors and whilst most people get away with simply feeling out of breath very easily, some can become sick and dizzy with the only guaranteed cure being to drop in altitude.
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Given this altitude issue you won’t want to walk too far around the city, especially given that the main street lies at the bottom of the canyon and therefore all streets off this road are generally uphill. That said I would advise walking as much as you can as it gives you the best opportunity to take in the vibrant city. The buzz of the centrally areas are fuelled by the array of markets selling everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to clothing and counterfeit CDs. There are local minibuses that dash around the cities but you’d probably need to have lived in La Paz you’re whole life before you could begin to know where these things will take you.
The lowest lying areas of the canyon form the main central and downtown areas of the city. Skyscrapers, shops bars and restaurants are all easily found on and around the cities main avenue; Avenida 16 de Julio. From certain vantage points you’ll be able to see the poorer districts of the city climbing out of the canyon at higher altitudes up away from the city centre.
For example a dried llama fetus thrown into the foundations of a house is said to protect the home, and this is a practice commonly followed in the country. Like many backpackers, I was travelling on a budget; to increase your chances of striking it rich I was advised to buy a dried frog and put a cigarette in its mouth! Advice I chose to not to follow so I can’t say whether it works or not.
You can do organized tours of the market but it is centrally located and easy enough to wander around at your own pace and if your Spanish is good the local stall owners will happily explain with sincerity the healing and life enhancing properties of their goods.
You can do organized tours of the market but it is centrally located and easy enough to wander around at your own pace and if your Spanish is good the local stall owners will happily explain with sincerity the healing and life enhancing properties of their goods.
A Guide to La Paz, Bolivia
Getting to La Paz
Getting Around La Paz
Things to see and do in La Paz
The Road of Death
When to Visit La Paz
Anyone spending time travelling in Bolivia will no doubt spend some time in La Paz given its location in the west of the country, close to the Peruvian border and a focal point for the country’s bus network. If you are following the well-trodden path overland from Peru, via Lake Titicaca, you’ll be able to get a bus from Copacabana to La Paz.
Whether it’s dried scorpions you’re after or simply a dried llama fetus the witches’ market is the place to go. The selection of goods on offer in this particular market may seem strange to the traveller’s eye, but the medicinal properties of these offerings are widely believed in Bolivia.
When I was there with the friends I was with, we were fortunate enough to time our visit with Bolivia’s biggest club domestic football clash. ‘Bolivar’ were playing ‘The Strongest’, both teams are La Paz based club teams so used to playing at this altitude, and whilst the football itself wasn’t memorable the overall atmosphere and experience certainly was. Like most things in Bolivia, getting tickets to the game didn’t blow the budget.
The climate is generally dry and even in the wet season rainfall isn’t that significant and tends to come in the afternoons. You’re often treated to clear blue skies, which can make the weather warm during the day. Due to the altitude it never gets that hot and at night it is normally very cool. Not as well polished as other South American capitals, La Paz is a bit rough round the edges and sums up the chaotic, random side of Bolivian life that I personally find very endearing. It is a very interesting city with a certain vibrancy about it and the compact central area makes it easy enough to get round in a relatively short visit so be sure to allocate a few days to having a good look round.
Peter Bailey - 15th April 2008
Peter Bailey - 15th April 2008