On our tour it was made clear that Rocinha is run by the drug dealers and the police have little or no influence. The main drug dealt in Rocinha is cocaine and our guide for the day was very forth coming with information on how and when they get their deliveries. New deliveries tend to be signaled with some fireworks, which is a direct and seemingly unsubtle way of spreading the word. If the police make a surprise visit to the area you may well see some children playing with kites. This is one of the ways that drug dealers are warned about any potential raids.
Whilst it’s a haven for the drug dealers, the majority of those living in the favelas are normal people trying to make an honest living. It may surprise some people that other crime within Rocinha is actually quite rare. This is because the drug dealers don’t want any adverse attention that might attract the police to the area so they tend to offer protection to the ordinary people and ‘police’ matters themselves. It effectively runs as an independent state with its own rules and systems.
Advice that will be echoed by the guides is that be careful when taking photos in the favelas, Wider shots of the buildings tend to be fine but don’t point you camera directly at anyone as it maybe the wrong person who might not react very favourably. Needless to say you shouldn’t just go into a favela on your own.
Established Neighborhood
Although Rocinha’s origin was one of people settling on ‘spare’ land and erecting homes illegally the success of the region has meant that it is now officially classed as a neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro. Therefore it is technically not a favela as this implies a ‘shanty town’ or ‘slum’ with no official status.
Whilst it’s a haven for the drug dealers, the majority of those living in the favelas are normal people trying to make an honest living. It may surprise some people that other crime within Rocinha is actually quite rare. This is because the drug dealers don’t want any adverse attention that might attract the police to the area so they tend to offer protection to the ordinary people and ‘police’ matters themselves. It effectively runs as an independent state with its own rules and systems.
Advice that will be echoed by the guides is that be careful when taking photos in the favelas, Wider shots of the buildings tend to be fine but don’t point you camera directly at anyone as it maybe the wrong person who might not react very favourably. Needless to say you shouldn’t just go into a favela on your own.
Established Neighborhood
Although Rocinha’s origin was one of people settling on ‘spare’ land and erecting homes illegally the success of the region has meant that it is now officially classed as a neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro. Therefore it is technically not a favela as this implies a ‘shanty town’ or ‘slum’ with no official status.
Rocinha is Rio’s largest Favela with a population around 100,000. Some say it is the largest favela in Brazil but there are slums on the outskirts of Sao Paulo thought to be far more populous (no official census has even been done). Even still the area Rocinha covers is comparable to a moderately sized town and it is sandwiched between Gavea, one of Rio’s more exclusive neighborhoods, Sao Conrado and a steep hillside.
Gavea contains many exclusive properties and is home to some very wealthy Cariocas. As you drive up through Gavea admiring the views and beautiful villas you suddenly hit Rocinha which sprawls up the mountain side behind Gavea. Rocinha shares the same wonderful view of Rio that Gavea has but that’s where the similarities end.
Gavea contains many exclusive properties and is home to some very wealthy Cariocas. As you drive up through Gavea admiring the views and beautiful villas you suddenly hit Rocinha which sprawls up the mountain side behind Gavea. Rocinha shares the same wonderful view of Rio that Gavea has but that’s where the similarities end.
The first impressions of Rocinha are ones of chaos with a huge density of haphazard buildings and telegraph poles with hundreds of wires feeding off the same supply. Many in Rocinha don’t register with their local electricity board and instead help themselves to the electricity supply.
One of the most surprising things on the tour was the high street than ran through the centre of Rocinha. There were bars, restaurants, clothes shops, pharmacies and even banks.
The houses themselves are typically constructed by the owner and the workmanship is basic. However the majority of homes have sanitation, plumbing and electricity and some even have cable TV. Given that the neighborhood is now established and recognized they also own their homes and the risk of the homes being destroyed has gone.
The houses themselves are typically constructed by the owner and the workmanship is basic. However the majority of homes have sanitation, plumbing and electricity and some even have cable TV. Given that the neighborhood is now established and recognized they also own their homes and the risk of the homes being destroyed has gone.
Carnival in Rio is arguably the biggest party in the world with millions of locals and visitors enjoying days of parades, dancing, music and partying. The pictures we see in the world press tend to be of the hugely elaborate floats that make the event the flamboyant spectacle that it is. All the floats and dancing are put together by Samba schools across Rio and these samba schools tend to be in favelas. Rocinha has, and is very proud of, it’s own samba school and it is possible to watch them rehearsing in the build up to Carnival.
There are now several companies offering tours of Rocinha and other favelas in Rio and the cost is typically R$ 60 - R$80 for half a day.
Paul Morris - 20th September 2008
There are now several companies offering tours of Rocinha and other favelas in Rio and the cost is typically R$ 60 - R$80 for half a day.
Paul Morris - 20th September 2008
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Gavea
Rocinha
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Visiting Rocinha, Rio's Largest Favela
Rocinha Drugs and Other Crime
Rio Favelas and Carnival
In the 2 photos above the road you can see in the very bottom right corner of Gavea and at the bottom of the Rocinha photo is the same road. As you come up the road through Gavea there is a hairpin bend and as soon as you round the bend you are right up against the front of Rocinha. Both of the photos were taken from the same position.